Riporna i Katarinaparken


När jag jobbade i Ryssland låg restaurangen bara tvåhundra meter från Katarina den Storas sommarpalats. Palatset har en gigantisk park där jag tog långa promenader för att samla inspiration. En dag såg jag massor av ripor som hoppade runt i en skogsdunge. När jag kom tillbaka till restaurangen försökte jag förklara vad jag sett och fråga om det gick att få tag på fåglarna. Efter lite viftande och pekande kom vi fram till att det var Ryabchik jag sett. Jag gjorde det här rysk-svenska receptet. Om du inte får tag på ripa kan du testa med kyckling eller anka.

Confit of Ryabchik on cabbage parcel with apple salad

6 Portion

Ingredients Amount used

Breast of hazel-hen 900 Gr

Juniper berries 5 Gr

Black pepper 2 Gr

Salt 5 Gr

Duck fat 5000 Cl

Cabbage 300 Gr

Leg meat 400 Gr

Apples, green 500 Gr

Duck liver fat 10 Cl

Arborio rice 200 Gr

Cumin 5 Gr

Salt 5 Gr

White pepper 2 Gr

Ryabchik sauce 300 Cl

Apples, green 120 Gr

Horseraddish 40 Gr

Baby spinach 70 Gr

Extra virgin olive oil 5 Cl

Cut out the fillets of the bird, roast the carcass in the oven at 180 degrees until the leg meat is done. Cool and pick as much meat of the carcass as possible, reserve the carcass for the sauce.

For the confit: Rub the fillets with salt, pepper and cruched juniper berries, marinate in the fridge for 2 hours. Immerse the fillets in the duck fat and put in the oven at 100 degrees until the core temperature of the fillets are 65 degrees, leave to cool in the fat.

For the cabbage parcel: Blanch and cool six large cabbage leaves. Boil the rice until ”al dente”, leave to cool. Dice the apples in 0,5 cm cubes, fry in oil (dont fry to long or the apples will be muchy). Tear the ryabchik meat in fine threads. Mix all ingredients exept the cabbage and add the spices to taste. Portion the mixture on the cabbage leaves and fold to a parcel shape. Store in the refridgerator.

For the salad: Cut the apple in julienne strips using a mandolin, put in cold water with some lemon juice to prevent from browning. Rince the spinach and spin it dry. Grate the horseraddish at the last moment.

To serve: Heat the fillet in the duck fat over medium heat. Fry the parcel in clarified butter until golden. Heat the sauce. Grate the horseraddish, mix the salad and coat lightly with olive oil. Pat the fillet dry and cut it in diagonal pieces, put it on a plate. Put the parcel on the plate. Take the sauce of the heat and whisk in i knob of butter, ladle over the fillet and parcel. Serve the salad on the side.

Ryabchik sauce 1,2 L

90 gr Sunflower oil

680 gr Veal trimmings

300 gr Ryabchik carcass chopped

160 gr Shallots chopped

200 gr Mushrooms

300 gr Carrots

30 gr Garlic

30 gr Tomato purée

5 gr Thyme

2 Bay leaves

600 gr White wine

1,2 L Water

3 L Veal stock

Heat the oil in a wide pot, when it just begins to smoke add the veal trimmings and ryabchik carcasses. Sear the veal trimmings and ryabchik carcasses, without stirring, for 10 minutes, they should be well browned before they are moved. Turn the veal trimmings and quail carcasses and cook for about 10 minutes longer until they are evenly colored. Well roasted

veal trimmings and ryabchik carcasses will give the sauce its flavour.

For the first deglazing: Add the vegetables. The water in the vegetables provides the liquid for deglazing. Cook as above until the moisture has evaporated and the vegetables are caramellized. Add the tomato purée, thyme and bay leaves and deglaze for two minutes

For the second deglazing: Add the wine and water. Deglaze the pot, scraping up the glazed juices from the bottom, simmer until reduced by 2/3.

For the fourth deglazing: Add the veal stock. Deglaze the pot, scraping up the glazed juices from the bottom, then transfer the stock and bones to a smaller narrower pot so that it will be easier to skim. Bring to a simmer (with the pot set partially off the burner to force the impurities to the side of the pot) and ladle of the oil as it rises to the top. Simmer for 30 to 45 minutes, skimming often, until the stock has reduced by half.

Strain the sauce through a strainer and then again through a chinois. Do not force any of the solids through the strainer or they will cloud your sauce. You should have about 1,5 litres of liquid.

Pour the liquid into a small pot, reduce to about 1,2 litres, and strain.

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